The bus trip was very pretty, lots of rolling green hillsides and interesting buildings. On the bus, I met a lovely lady by the name of Ann whose parents were English and Brazilian. She was a lovely bus-mate and helped direct me to the right bus once I got to town. It was my first experience with Brazilian hospitality.
Rio has a well-earned reputation for beautiful beaches. This one is the world-famous Ipanema. The hostel was a 4-block walk from the beach (Ipanema, Brazil)
As I was leaving the modern art museum, I was about to board the bus back to the main part of Niterói. As I was bording, there was a standing man yelling in English at another seated man. He sounded British, and the man he was yelling at wasn't saying anything. The British man kept yelling "give me back my money" and finally grabbed the man by his shirt. The man moved his shirt, and some money slid down onto his lap. He then grabbed the money and threw it on the floor, so that the British man would grab the money instead of him.
The British man grabbed the money and left the bus, leaving the pickpocket behind. The pickpocket, visibly shaken, he moved to a different seat at the back of the bus. At the next stop, he exited the bus, free to take the NEXT bus in the opposite direction, ready to pickpocket again.
The pickpocket looked like so many other people, blue collar, worn backpack, slightly weathered face. Around 50 years old.
I have heard a number of stories about pickpockets before, but had never seen one happen right in front of me.